20 Amazing spaces in Venice that most tourists won’t see

Numbers 11-15

Most visitors to Venice will spend their time taking in iconic sights like St Mark’s Square and the Rialto Bridge, traversing between the two.  The Doge’s Palace, the Accademia galleries and that great promenade – the Riva degli Schiavoni are favourites too.  Despite the vast number of tourists that visit the city, there are many amazing places in Venice that go unnoticed.  They are not far from the iconic sights, yet they are not well-known, but they are worthy of a visit.  Here are the ones from 11-15.

11. The Oratory of the Crociferi

If you are visiting the cloister of the Jesuit church, or indeed the church itself, see if you can get access to the Oratory of the Crociferi (tickets).  The ‘bearers of the cross’ – the Crociferi – were friars from Rome who hosted pilgrims during their journey to the Holy Land and aided the ill and the crusaders. They were a recognised order in 1160 and arrived in Venice in the 12th century. Financed by the Gussoni family, they built a church and monastery, and a hospital-hospice. Doge Renier Zen bequeathed them half of his family fortune.

The works of Palma Giovane are in abundance and there is an eight canvas ‘cycle’ telling the story of the Crociferi. This is a much more modest building and a little more accessible after the grandeur of the Gesuiti!

Locating the Oratory

Access from my guide maps: Walk #16 ‘Ca’Doro’ – point of interest #11.

12. San Sebastiano

The church of San Sebastiano is the magnum opus of the great Venetian painter Paolo Veronese.  The first church on this site was an oratory founded in 1396 by the order of the Hermits of Saint Jerome. It replaced with a larger structure in 1455-68 but the building you see today dates back to design by Scarpagnino begun in 1506 and consecrated in 1562. The church and the convent next door were suppressed in 1810 by Napoleon and the convent was partially demolished before being rebuilt in 1856. It now houses the University of Venice’s department of literature and philosophy. The façade was built in 1548 and is split into two parts bounded by four pairs of Corinthian columns which support a large tympanum (top section). The statues on the top of the building are Saint Sebastian (in the middle, complete with arrow), Saint Jerome (left) and Saint Catherine of Alexandria (right). This was the local parish church of Paolo Veronese, one of the great masters of Venetian art in the late Renaissance. He is buried here, and almost all of the artworks you see inside are his. There is also a Titian inside of Saint Nicholas. The church is a ‘must-see’ destination for art lovers and is special for several reasons: the quality and consistency in the theme of the paintings; the seamless blend of art and architecture; and the fact that the art is seen in its original context (a different experience than that of trudging through a gallery – something that is much easier to experience in Venice than in many other cities of the world).  Access through the Chorus organisation here.

Locating San Sebastiano

Access my guide maps on Walk #14 ‘Veronese’ – point of interest #11.

13. The Screen at the Scuola San Giovanni Evangelista

Both the church and the Scuola of San Giovanni Evangelista are worth the time to visit.  A bonus for the visitor is the beautiful marble screen (by Pietro Lombardo c.1485) between the church and Scuola which you will see as you leave the small campiello between the buildings and turn back.

Locating the Screen

Walk #5 ‘Titian’, Point of Interest 4.

14. Palazzo Zenobio degli Armeni

In the Dorsoduro district near the Carmini church is a Palazzo with an austere but deceiving façade, for beyond it, lies a beautiful space, both inside and in the garden behind.  Ca’ Zenobio was designed by Antonio Gaspari and constructed in 1690 becoming the home of the College of the Armenians in 1850. Access to this palazzo and its pretty gardens at the rear depend on what exhibitions are taking place. If you are able to go in, look for the ‘hall of mirrors’.

Locating the Palazzo

Walk #5 ‘Veronese’ Just after Point of Interest 15.

15. Palazzo Loredan (Foyer) Campo San Stefano

As there are several Palazzi ‘Loredan’ in Venice the distinction is made here of the one facing Campo Santo Stefano.  The campo itself is an impressive one with an interesting history.  Being on the route between St Mark’s and the Accademia gallery it is also very busy.  It is worth pausing for a look in the foyer of the Palazzo Loredan.  The building now houses the Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti.  The Institute was established in 1810 under Napoleon (as the Reale Istituto Nazionale) but with name changes has been operating with its present title since 1838.  Take a moment to visit the entry foyer as it houses the busts of a ’Pantheon’ of accomplished and famous Venetians dating back through historical times (for example Goldoni; Canova, Giovanni Bellini; Marco Polo, and Veronese along with a selection of Doges).

Locating the Palazzo

Walk #3 ‘Casanova’ See Point of Interest 13.

Further Reading (Oratory of the Crociferi)

Manno, A. Venchierutti, M. & Codato, P. (2004). The Treasures of Venice, Rizzoli, New York

Visit Venezia

Images

Interior: Visit Venezia

Exterior: Wikimedia user Abxbay

Canaletto Painting: Wikimedia user The Yorck Project

Further Reading (San Sebastiano)

Manno, A. Venchierutti, M. & Codato, P. (2004). The Treasures of Venice, Rizzoli, New York

Churches of Venice webpage

Images

Wikimedia Commons users:

Kasa Fue (overview)

Dorotheum (Heintz II painting)

Didier Descouens (Palazzo Soranzo)

Didier Descouens (Church of San Polo)

Venice Life (Lion with head)

Image Credit (Marble Screen at the Scuola San Giovanni Evangelista)

Wikimedia user Didier Descouens

Image Credits Palazzo Zenobio degli Armeni

Wikimedia users

Abxbay (Façade)

Thomas1313 (Rear Garden Area)

Jean-Pierre Dalbera (Hall of Mirrors)

Image Credits (Palazzo Loredan (Foyer))

Wikimedia Commons users:

ESA/Hubble (Foyer)

Didier Descouens (Façade)

Click here for Amazing Spaces 1-5

San Gregorio Monastery

Scuola degli Schiavoni

San Zulian

Garden of the Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Sant’Apollonia Cloister

Click here for Amazing Spaces 6-10

San Zaccaria Crypt

San Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

San Giacomo dell’Orio

Gesuiti cloister

Click here for Amazing Spaces 16-20

‘Marco Polo’ Courtyard

The Church of San Simeon Crypt

Taverna Remer

Palazzo Mocenigo

The Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli