The Tolentino walk takes in less-visited areas of the city and is one of two walks in the relatively peaceful district of Santa Croce.  It is also comparatively easy to navigate this walk as it has long sections with ‘hand-rails’ in place for the urban orienteer.  This walk matches well with the Turchi walk (Walk #8) in the same sestiere, which would form a good leg-stretching 4 km walk with 40 plus points of interest.

Proceeding east along the Fondamenta Minotto yields several interesting buildings all in a row.  The first of these in the Scuola dei Laneri at no. 131/A.  There follows a sequence of palazzi along the fondamenta at the numbers indicated: the Gothic era Palazzo Marcello (No. 134A), the 17^th century Palazzo Minotto (No. 143) and the Gothic Palazzo Odoni (No. 151) originating from the 15^th century.

Further along at the junction of three canals there is a right turn onto Fondamenta Tolentini.  There is a pair of bridges at the junction.  The first is called Ponte dei Gafaro, the second Ponte dei Squartai.  This bridge is named from the practice of leaving body parts of those suffering the sentence of being ‘quartered’ on their execution in various places in the city, to demonstrate the gravity of their offence(s).  This is thought to be one of the bridges where this practice was carried out.

Turning right and a little further on you will reach the campo and church of San Nicolo Tolentino.  This is an interesting church which has a disconcerting contrast between the classical façade and the extravagant (and beautiful) baroque interior.  The church was consecrated in 1602.  Look for the cannon ball embedded in the façade of church noting the Austrian siege of the city in 1849.  There are several noteworthy paintings in the church, perhaps the best-known artist represented is Palma il Giovane.  See also the Charity of Saint Lawrence by Bernardo Strozzi.

If time permits, there is a worthwhile diversion from the marked trail by turning left just after leaving the campo and going over Ponte Tolentini.  Through the double arches on the other side of the bridge lies the Papadopoli Gardens, a peaceful green wedge.  On the northern side of the gardens is the Grand Canal and by turning right, you will resume the walk at POI #8 (an architectural fragment from the demolished Santa Croce church).  Likewise, there is the option of continuing to the Grand Canal from POI #8 on to POIs #9-10.

Whichever way you arrive at the next point of interest (The Church of San Simeone Piccolo POI #9) you will find a Palladian styled classical façade with an oversized dome.  If you arrived in the city by train, your eye would have likely been drawn to it as you emerged from the station.  Observers through the years have been less than kind in characterising the church: ‘a wretched imitation of the Pantheon’ writes Pompeo Molmenti the historian (1906).  Napoleon Bonaparte was reported to have said: ‘I have seen churches without domes before, but I’ve never, until now, seen a dome without a church’.  John Ruskin (an English writer and art critic of the Victorian era) wrote: ‘One of the ugliest churches in Venice or elsewhere. Its black dome, like an unusual species of gasometer, is the admiration of modern Italian architects’.  The original church was founded in the 9^th century and consecrated in 1271.  There was a complete rebuild commencing in 1720.  The interior has an elliptical shaped nave with four altars.  Of special interest is a frescoed crypt beneath the church which can visited (opening times vary).  The Churches of Venice website describes it as: ‘a warren of tunnels, radiating from a central octagonal domed space, which has the light. The walls and ceilings are totally covered in painted decoration and images, with spooky niches and chambers leading off.  The painting is rough in execution and macabre in style, with reclining bodies, Passion scenes and skeletons featured’.  Next door at No. 697 is the guild of the woollen cloth weavers dating to 1559.

Further on, there is another green wedge in this district which is a delight to visit.  Behind the Palazzo Soranzo Capello (POI #12) is a garden which is usually accessible during business hours (the palazzo is now an office building).

After leaving the garden and being tempted at the Pasticceria Rio Marin, head along the fondamenta and turn right for the church of San Simeone Profeta (Saint Simon the Apostle).  The church originated as early as the 11^th century and was rebuilt in the 12^th-13^th centuries.  Giorgio Massari’s (1757) façade has a classical appearance and the two columns either side have Corinthian capitals.  The church was restored in 1838 and 1861.  The columns inside the church along the nave are thought to have originated from the 13^th century, and the statues of the apostles above the columns are a 19^th century addition.  There is a Tintoretto ‘Last Supper’ painting in the church, along with several other notable works, especially the ‘Presentation at the Temple with Donors’ by Palma il Giovane. 

In the sottoportego around to the left as we continue our walk, there is a relief of Saint Ermolaus, whose bones were brought to Venice and interred in the church of San Simeone in 1205.  It was created in 1382 and was originally under the portico of the church facing the campo but was moved when that part of the structure was demolished (see Giordani 2002, p.425; this relief is also described by others as the tombstone of a bishop, e.g., in Lorenzetti’s guide).   In 1851, John Ruskin wrote: ‘in the little passage by the side of the church, leading out of the Campo, there is a curious Gothic monument built into the wall, very beautiful in the placing of the angels in the spandrils, and rich in the vine-leaf moulding above’.  As you go through Sottoportego de la Chiesa, judge for yourself!

Pressing on, we soon reach Lista Vecia dei Bari (to turn left and continue to the final stage of the walk).  A few metres beyond turning into the Lista, on the left you will see an ancient (possibly 13^th century) and quaint archway leading into Corte Pisani with sculpted animals on top of the capitals.  The walk is now drawing to a close – if you are hungry, Trattoria-Pizzeria All’Anfora is on your way as you reach your final turn to end Walk #7.  There is an easy option via vaporetto (Riva de Biasio stop) to other parts of the city.  Consider taking the vaporetto to San Stae for Walk #8 which is the other walk in this sestiere.