The Church of San Polo is one of the oldest in Venice and was founded during the reign of Doge Pietro Tradonico (836-864). The church was rebuilt twice resulting in the present structure which was completed in the 15th century. In 1804 a further renovation took place under architect David Rossi. The impressive gothic arch over the doorway on the southern entrance to the church was retained and is the work of Bartolomeo Bon’s workshop. The eastern side of the building is the outside of the apse of the church. It has a number of impressive reliefs from various eras, including a 16th century relief of the Madonna enthroned with St Peter and St Paul on the left. Beneath the relief there is a plaque indicating: ‘All games whatsoever are prohibited: as also the sale of goods, or the erection of shops, around this church, by order of the most excellent esecutori contra la biastema: with the penalty of prison, the galleys, exile and also 300 lire de’ picoli, to be divided between the accuser and captors’.

Look for the sculpture of St Paul in a classical-styled niche (restored in 1988 by ‘Save Venice’) further around to the right. It was placed there during the 1804 renovation – having been originally over the southern entrance door. The torso is thought to be an ancient Greek sculpture that dates to the fourth century BC. An unidentified Italian sculptor added a head and feet to the fragment in the middle of the 15th century, creating what we see today for the church of San Polo. The sculpture’s damaged right hand once held a sword, the instrument of Saint Paul’s martyrdom. The pattern at the base of the plinth seems to be a nod to the Greek origins. Note also on the peak of the roof of the building a 13th century angel holding an incense burner (thurible). Further around to the right, there are two interesting and somewhat ancient reliefs depicting scenes from the life of Christ.

On the eastern side of the campo, Palazzo Soranzo is an example of a double palazzo. The palazzo on the left is the older of the-two, built in the mid-14th century, the lintels of its twin entrances carved with designs in the Byzantine-style, as are the paterae on the floor above. The right-hand palace dates from the mid-15th century its design an imitation of that of the earlier building, with the Gothic string course extending along the-full length of both facades. Both palaces were acquired in the mid-15th century by the Soranzo, probably soon after the second palazzo was completed (John Freely, 2004).