This walk is a circuit between three fascinating campos in the San Marco district.  Covering a distance of 800 metres there are several opportunities to stop for a coffee or an aperitif.  These walks are connected to two other longer walks in San Marco, namely Casanova and Manin.  Start from Ponte San Maurizio and head west towards Campo Santo Stefano.

Campo Santo Stefano has a colourful history, and its size facilitated various events, including bullfighting.  The last bullfight in Venice took place in this Campo in 1802, after which the occupying Austrians banned the practice.  There are several other points of interest to explore around the campo starting with Palazzo Loredan (POI #2).  The Palazzo was purchased by the Loredan in 1536 and houses the Venetian Institute of Science Arts and Letters.  In the entry foyer there are the busts of some sixty individuals who played a prominent role in Venetian history – Doges, artists, architects, soldiers, scientists and so on (the entry is further along from the corner shown on the map).

On your way to the palazzo, you may have noticed the prominent statue of Niccolo Tommaseo in the centre of the campo (a linguist and journalist who compiled a substantial Italian dictionary, published in 1874).  In the corner of the campo near Palazzo Loredan at No. 2949 is Palazzo Barbaro (POI #4).

Now head towards the church of Santo Stefano in the north of the campo.  At POI #5 there is a good place to stop, the Trattoria da Fiore (not to be confused with the other da Fiore which is more on the high-end dining scale).  A few more steps and we arrive at the entrance of the church of Santo Stefano.  Building here commenced in 1294 by the Augustinians who moved from Castello after they were given certain privileges in the city (for example being able to receive alms) which brought them into line with other branches of the church such as the Dominicans and Franciscans.  After passing through the handsome portal thought to be by Bartolomeo Bon, you will notice it has a ship’s keel styled ceiling with an interior that narrows from the entrance to the main altar.  The decoration of the walls of the church are noteworthy – as are the gothic arches along the apse – each of which is surmounted by a fresco of each of twelve saints beatified by the Augustinians.  The lozenge fresco pattern on the upper walls is evocative of the outside pattern of the Doge’s Palace.  There are many works of art to be seen here, including three Tintorettos and some works by earlier artists such as Bartolomeo Vivarini (1450-99) and Paolo Veneziano (active around 1321-62).  Canova created the tombstone for Senator Giovanni Falier.  Another important tombstone is that of the Venetian composer Giovanni Gabrieli (1555-1612) who served three Doges as the organist/composer at San Marco which is located in front of the fifth altar from the front.  Look for the funerary monument to Giacomo Surian of Rimini (to the left of the main door) completed 1488-93 by the workshop of Pietro Lombardo.

As you exit the church, turn right to head for the next destination but before you proceed, look across the calle opposite the church for the former Scuola di Santo Stefano dei Lanieri (POI #7) – above 3467 you will see a relief of Saint Stephen with the brethren of the scuola.

Campo Sant’Anzolo (POI #8) was the subject of a Canaletto painting, created around the mid-1700’s.  It fills in the missing piece of a puzzle, being the namesake of the campo, which is a church that was demolished in 1837 (only the oratory remains, POI #9).  Two of the three palazzos noted as points of interest can be seen in the painting, Palazzo Trevisan-Pisani (POI #10) and Palazzo Duodo (POI #13).  POI #11 is the Palazzo Gritti Morosini.  The oratory with its (since replaced) lunette shaped façade top can also be seen.  The wells were still in use at the time of the artist’s work.  The entrance to the cloister that was the monastery of Santo Stefano can also be seen (the pink building between the oratory and church tower with the prominent gothic arch doorway).

On the return journey towards our third and final campo, there is a small diversion just off the map towards la Fenice (the Venice Opera House) (see inset) to POI #14.  Once you reach Campiello dei Calagheri, take the left exit over Ponte Storto and going along Fondamente de la Fenice you will soon arrive at the back of the Fenice.  Standing on the top of Ponte Maria Callas, look to the west and you can see the bell tower of Santo Stefano.  You are now looking at the scene sketched by English artist Joseph Turner in 1840 which is now in the Tate Gallery (see the sketch here).  Turner sketched several aspects of this troubled bell tower which has a story of its own.  The tower was completed in 1546.  In August 1585 the tower was struck by lightning and collapsed.  Replacement bells were sourced from (the then outlawed) Catholic churches in England.  The tower was rebuilt in the 17^th and 18^th centuries, but it began to lean because of subsidence.  The base of the tower was reinforced in 1902 and 1906 (Sammartini, 2002).

Head back to Campiello dei Caligheri.  The well head in the Campiello (POI #15) is thought to date from the late 14^th or early 15^th century.  Proceed over Ponte de la Malvasia Vecchia and past Da Mario (POI #16), another possible stopping point if the opportunity avails.

Now onward to Campo San Maurizio.  As you turn right into Calle Zaguri, it is worthwhile backtracking on Ponte Zaguri to see the façade of Palazzo Zaguri at No. 2631 (on Fondamenta Zaguri, POI #17).  In Campo San Maurizio you will find the church of San Maurizio (POI #20) which is a must see for lovers of music history.  The church houses the Music Museum of Venice, an interesting collection of violins, mandolins, and lyres.  The history of the church goes back a long way (possibly as far as 1088, but the current structure dates to 1806, with the rebuild undertaken by Giannantonio Selva for the patrician Pietro Zaguri.  The church was not consecrated until 1828.  The bell tower of the church was demolished to make space for the palazzo on the left side of the church (as you face the building) – Palazzo Bellavite-Terzi (POI #19; No.2760).  The land was acquired by flour and oil merchant Dionino Bellavite and the façade was originally decorated with frescoes by Paolo Veronese.  Subsequently, there have been two prominent occupants of the building: poet Giorgio Baffo, and poet and novelist Alessandro Manzoni.  Plaques on the façade note their respective occupancies.  The next noteworthy building in the campo is Palazzo Molin, at no. 2758. (POI #18).  Looking back in the direction from which you came, the western façade of Palazzo Zaguri can be seen (to the right of Calle Zaguri).  The vera da pozzo in the campo is dated 1521.

With the walk at an end, consider returning to Campo Santo Stefano for a refreshment!

Sources and Further Reading:

Churches of Venice, (2022). http://churchesofvenice.com/sanmarco.htm

Freely, J. (1994).  Strolling through Venice, Penguin Books, London

Manno, A. Venchierutti, M. & Codato, P. (2004). The Treasures of Venice, Rizzoli, New York

Sammartini, T. (2002). Venice from the Bell Towers, Merrell Publishers, London

Images:

Canaletto painting of Campo Sant Anzolo: Wikimedia Commons

Palazzo Morosini in Campo Sant Anzolo: Wikimedia Commons – Didier Descouens

Palazzo Loredan Entrance Foyer: Wikimedia Commons – ESA/Hubble

Palazzo Molin in Campo San Maurizio: Wikimedia Commons – Didier Descouens

Niccolo Tommaseo Statue: Wikimedia Commons – Didier Descouens

Palazzo Duodo: Wikimedia Commons – Didier Descouens

Campo Santo Stefano: Wikimedia Commons – Luca Aless

Campiello Calegheri:  Wikimedia Commons – Venice life

Bell tower Santo Stefano: Wikimedia Commons – Lothar John