Manin walk directions
Features of the ‘Manin’ walk in San Marco
This walk takes you through the central parts of San Marco via several important campos, starting in Campo Santo Stefano (join this with Walk #3 if you are feeling energetic!). The walk also features some of the finest palazzos in the city away from the Grand Canal. Chiesa Santo Stefano is the gateway to this walk. Though its origins date back to 1264, in its present form it was rebuilt by 1443. The main entrance dates to the fifteenth century and is by Bartolomeo Bon. Inside there are several notable artworks, including three Tintorettos and a tombstone (for Giovanni Falier) created by Antonio Canova, the location of his first Venetian studio.
Following the first set of directions will take you past two opportunities to enjoy a view of the Grand Canal and beyond to another important campo. Campo Sant’ Anzolo was the subject of a Canaletto painting, created around the mid-1700’s. It fills in the missing piece of the puzzle, being the namesake of the campo, which is a demolished church (only the oratory remains, POI #7). Two of the three palazzos noted as points of interest can be seen in the painting, Palazzo Trevisan-Pisani (right) and Palazzo Duodo (left). The oratory with its (since replaced) lunette shaped façade top can also be seen. The wells are still in use. The entrance to the cloister that was the monastery of Santo Stefano can also be seen (the pink building between the oratory and church tower with the prominent gothic arch doorway).
Following the next set of directions will take you on some twists and turns and eventually to a small but important campo (San Beneto). The San Beneto church as seen now resulted from a rebuild commencing in 1619 from its original form in 1229. The building on the left is Palazzo Martinengo which has a façade on the Grand Canal. If you missed the views for POI’s #2 or #3, then trek down the calle for another view of some of the loveliest palazzi on the Grand Canal. The Palazzo Pesaro (now Fortuny) was purchased by Mariano Fortuny a Spanish designer, painter and craftsman in the 20th century. His influence on high fashion and the gift of the palazzo to the Commune of Venice by his widow has resulted in the building being utilised as a museum of fabrics, paintings and for art exhibitions.
Continuing on and past the quaint Corte San Andrea takes you past the Church of San Luca. The church was established around 1072 but re-built in the 16th century. After the partial collapse of the façade in 1827 subsequent repair works were completed. The playwright and controversial figure Pietro Arentino is buried here. There are works by Veronese and Palma Giovane amongst others. On the side of the church there is a Campiello that has an interesting doorway at number 4038 (Palazzo Magno, POI #14).
Further on you will arrive at Campo Daniele Manin with the commemorative statue (notable lion at the base). Beyond is Campo San Luca which has several shopping destinations. The pedestal with the flagpole was erected to commemorate the defeat of the coup in 1310 led by Bajamonte Tiepolo (see the start of Walk 1 for details of what led to the defeat of Tiepolo and his followers). Continuing on we will now curve back towards our final destination near the Venetian Opera House (Teatro La Fenice).
On the way to the finish of this walk, a diversion takes us to POI #18 which is the rear of the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. The palazzo can be seen from the Rio de San Luca but its rear staircase is the attraction. There is also a collection of vera da pozzo, some of which pre-date the Romanesque era. The palazzo itself was built in 1499 for Pietro Contarini, a Venetian architect who started out as a carpenter.
Continuing on with the directions takes you to Ponte dei Barcaroli and just before the bridge on the left, Palazzo Basadonna, a place where Mozart stayed during Carnevale in 1771. This is marked by a plaque on the façade. You will soon arrive in Campo San Fantin and the famed opera house of Venice. The history of La Fenice is a long and coloured one, including the destruction of the building by fire in 1996 and the difficulties of the rebuild, with the venue reopening in 2003.
Around the corner and to the right takes you to the Campiello Fenice and the end of this walk. There is a webcam on this campo which is positioned above the building at the northern end (Hotel San Fantin). Either Vino Vino (double back a little) or the Taverna La Fenice are good places to stop and reflect on the sights of this walk.
Selected images from the Manin walk
Detailed Directions
(these are available with the map via the ‘Download’ button above…)
Exit Campo Santo Stefano and follow Campiello Santo Stefano for 30 metres, turning left into Calle del Pestrin, then up the stairs on the left and into Campiello Novo o dei Morti. Cross the Campiello, then down the stairs and right into Piscina San Samuele.
Continue 70 metres along the piscina (noting diversion to Calle del Traghetto on the left), following along as it veers right for a further 40 metres. Take the staircase on the right, which meets with Calle del Pestrin and Corte Lucatello, but cross over this calle and go under Sotoportego Narisi (WP1) and onto Fondamenta Narisi, turning left into Corte de L’Alberto after 40 metres (note ancient arched doorway at 3890 with the patera, similar to the arch in Walk 16, POI #7). (For the diversion to Sant’ Angelo vaporetto), go left in Corte Alberto).
Take the eastern exit on Corte Alberto (on the right) and take a right along Fondamente de L’Alberto, turn left and cross the bridge in 20 metres. In another 20 metres, turn right into Calle dei Avvocati. In 70 metres, you will reach Campo Sant’ Anzolo.
Exit Campo Sant Anzolo in the north-east via Calle de la Spezier. In 30 metres, turn left at Rio Tera’ del la Mandola, then in another 30 metres, turn right into Calle del Magazen. Left into Calle a fianco Ca’ Pesaro, and in 40 metres you will reach Campo San Beneto and POI #11.
Exit Campo San Beneto on Salizzada de la Chiesa o del Teatro. In 25 metres, turn left onto Calle San Andrea, which after 40 metres leads to Corte San Andrea. From there, take Ramo de le Muneghe and follow it to the left, go under Sotoportego de le Muneghe and turn to the right. Take the bridge that leads to the front of the church for WP2.
Past the right-hand side of the church and into Campiello de la Chiesa, take the eastern exit of the campiello and right into Ramo de la Salizzada and in 30 metres you will enter Campo Daniele Manin.
Exit Campo Manin in the south-east on Rio Terra S. Paternian which takes a left turn at 30 metres. In 30 metres more, you will enter Campo San Luca. Take the southern exit of the campo on Calle del Fuseri and in 55 metres, turn right into Calle de la Vida o de le Locande to find POI #18.
To retrace your steps back to Calle del Fuseri, turn right coming out of the Scala Contarini del Bovolo courtyard and, then continue back for 60 metres and turn right. In another 60 metres you will reach Ponte dei Fuseri. Continue another 40 metres along Ramo dei Fuseri and turn right into Frezzaria. Continue 60 metres until reaching WP3, the bridge and POI #21.
In 50 metres, you will reach Campiello San Fantin. On the western side of the Campiello (next to Teatro La Fenice), turn into Calle de la Fenice. In 20 metres, you will reach Campiello Fenice and your destination.
Key terms
[Calle = street] [Campo = square (or literally: ‘field’] [Campiello = small campo] [Fondamenta = path along bank of a canal] [Piscina = street formed by filling in a pond] [Ponte = bridge] [Pozzo = well] [Ramo = short extension of a street] [Salizada = principal street in a parish] [Sotoportego = street passing under a building] [Merceria = busy street lined with shops].
Notes and extra symbols:
- Points of interest (POI) are numbered in the left-hand column above.
- Distances above are approximate. We are in Europe and they use the metric system (50 metres = 54.6 yards). 50 metres is around 65 steps, give or take a few steps!
- WP = Way point. Visually match these on the map or online to confirm you are tracking OK.
Image Credits
Unless otherwise indicated, images for restaurants and bars are from their website or social media.
# Start point for this walk: Wikimedia Commons user: Mister No
# Start point sight (Church of Santo Stefano portal): Wikimedia Commons user: Didier Descouens
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#3 View of the Grand Canal from Vaporetto stop Sant’ Angelo: Google Maps
#4 – #9 Overview: Google Earth
#8 Palazzo Duodo: Wikimedia Commons user Didier Descouens
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#5 & #6 Campo Sant’ Anzolo: Wikimedia Commons user: h_laca
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# Sant’ Anzolo by Canaletto: The Met https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/438103
#10 Palazzo Fortuny Wikimedia: Commons user Didier Descouens
#16 Daniele Manin commemorative statue: Wikimedia Commons user G.dallorto
_-_Monumento_a_Daniele_Manin_(1875)_-_04_-_Foto_Giovanni_Dall%27Orto,_6-Aug-2007.jpg){kind=link}
#18 Scala Contarini del Bovolo: Wikimedia Commons user sailko
#21 Palazzo Basadonna: Wikimedia Commons user Abxbay
#23 La Fenice: Wikimedia Commons users Youflavio; Didier Descouens
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#26 Hotel San Fantin: Wikimedia Commons user Abxbay
Additional sources for this guide can be found here, but for this walk, they are principally:
John Freely (1994). Strolling through Venice, Penguin Books, London
Churches of Venice web site
Tudy Sammartini (2002). Venice from the Bell Towers, Merrell Publishers, London
Peter Humfrey (2007). Titian, Phaidon Press, London