The Arsenale gives away almost nothing from the street, but the campi just west of it are full of evidence. A short section of Walk No. 11 in Castello, from the 1460 gateway and its travelled lion to the caulkers’ guild, the Arsenalotti houses and Campo Do Pozzi.

Three hundred metres of Cannaregio hold a Codussi church, a Gothic courtyard the crowds never find, and the ground where Marco Polo lived. The opening slice of the Miracoli Walk, from Ponte de l’Ogio to the courts of the Milion.

A short section of the Turchi Walk taken in reverse, from the textile rooms of Palazzo Mocenigo down to one of the finest campi in Santa Croce. Five points of interest, and a great deal of carved stone hiding in plain brick.

A short San Marco slice of the Casanova Walk, from the Barbaro family’s Baroque monument at Santa Maria del Giglio to a deconsecrated church that now holds violins. Along the way: a Hemingway hotel, a working gondola ferry, and a wellhead dated 1521.

From Sant’Aponal to the Riva del Vin, this stretch of the Pescaria Walk follows San Polo’s old wine-trading streets, past two ancient churches and the stone standard that once governed the city’s barbacani.

The Ghetto Walk saves its best evening for last: a long canalside eat street, four stone figures with an uncertain story in Campo dei Mori, and the Gothic church where Tintoretto worshipped, painted, and was laid to rest.

Out of the campo, over the canal, and back past a winged lion and a watchful Hercules: a short diversion to Palazzo Albrizzi, the palazzo that saves its splendour for the inside.

From the sun-warmed Zattere to a doge’s palazzo: the closing stretch of the Salute Walk, by way of the Gesuati, Tiepolo’s painted sky, and quiet Campo Sant’Agnese.

Paolo Veronese’s parish church, an archangel with a fish, and a column from ancient Greece — a short slice of the Veronese Walk along the quiet fondamente of western Dorsoduro.