Venice rewards the walker who slows down. Not the rush between famous sights, but the streets in between: a carved saint in a passage, a garden sensed behind a wall, a bridge named for something the city would rather forget.
Venice Field Notes are short, close-up guides to single stretches of the city – a few hundred metres at a time, taken from the walks in 17 Walks in Venice and the campi of The Fabric of Venice. Each one follows the route on the ground, points out what is easily missed, and explains a little of why it is there.
New notes are added regularly. Start with any that catches your eye – each stands on its own.

Vivaldi’s Old Neighbourhood: the Pietà to CampoBandiera e Moro
From the Riva degli Schiavoni to Campo Bandiera e Moro: the Pietà and its foundling hospital, a stone warning of 1548, and the parish where Vivaldi was born.

Palazzo Cini to Ca’ Dario: Walking Dorsoduro’s ArtDistrict
A short stretch of Walk No. 12 through the heart of Dorsoduro’s Museum Mile – Palazzo Cini, an English church, a Grand Canal viewpoint, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the back door of Ca’ Dario.

Ca’ Rezzonico to Ponte dei Pugni: The Barnabotti Walk in Dorsoduro
The opening stretch of Venice’s Barnabotti Walk runs from a thousand-year-old wellhead at Palazzo Stern to the fighting bridge at Ponte dei Pugni, taking in Ca’ Rezzonico and a campo that has twice appeared on film.

The Gates of the Arsenale and the Campo of San Martino
The Arsenale gives away almost nothing from the street, but the campi just west of it are full of evidence. A short section of Walk No. 11 in Castello, from the 1460 gateway and its travelled lion to the caulkers’ guild, the Arsenalotti houses and Campo Do Pozzi.

Marco Polo’s District: A short walk with a high payoff
Three hundred metres of Cannaregio hold a Codussi church, a Gothic courtyard the crowds never find, and the ground where Marco Polo lived. The opening slice of the Miracoli Walk, from Ponte de l’Ogio to the courts of the Milion.

Turchi Walk: Backwards from Palazzo Mocenigo
A short section of the Turchi Walk taken in reverse, from the textile rooms of Palazzo Mocenigo down to one of the finest campi in Santa Croce. Five points of interest, and a great deal of carved stone hiding in plain brick.

Casanova Walk: From the Barbaro Façade to the Music Museum
A short San Marco slice of the Casanova Walk, from the Barbaro family’s Baroque monument at Santa Maria del Giglio to a deconsecrated church that now holds violins. Along the way: a Hemingway hotel, a working gondola ferry, and a wellhead dated 1521.

From Sant’Aponal to the Riva del Vin: San Polo’s Wine-Trading Streets
From Sant’Aponal to the Riva del Vin, this stretch of the Pescaria Walk follows San Polo’s old wine-trading streets, past two ancient churches and the stone standard that once governed the city’s barbacani.

Tintoretto’s Neighbourhood: Fondamenta dei Ormesini to Madonna dell’Orto
The Ghetto Walk saves its best evening for last: a long canalside eat street, four stone figures with an uncertain story in Campo dei Mori, and the Gothic church where Tintoretto worshipped, painted, and was laid to rest.