Venice rewards the walker who slows down. Not the rush between famous sights, but the streets in between: a carved saint in a passage, a garden sensed behind a wall, a bridge named for something the city would rather forget.
Venice Field Notes are short, close-up guides to single stretches of the city – a few hundred metres at a time, taken from the walks in 17 Walks in Venice and the campi of The Fabric of Venice. Each one follows the route on the ground, points out what is easily missed, and explains a little of why it is there.
New notes are added regularly. Start with any that catches your eye – each stands on its own.

Casanova Walk: From the Barbaro Façade to the Music Museum
A short San Marco slice of the Casanova Walk, from the Barbaro family’s Baroque monument at Santa Maria del Giglio to a deconsecrated church that now holds violins. Along the way: a Hemingway hotel, a working gondola ferry, and a wellhead dated 1521.

From Sant’Aponal to the Riva del Vin: San Polo’s Wine-Trading Streets
From Sant’Aponal to the Riva del Vin, this stretch of the Pescaria Walk follows San Polo’s old wine-trading streets, past two ancient churches and the stone standard that once governed the city’s barbacani.

Tintoretto’s Neighbourhood: Fondamenta dei Ormesini to Madonna dell’Orto
The Ghetto Walk saves its best evening for last: a long canalside eat street, four stone figures with an uncertain story in Campo dei Mori, and the Gothic church where Tintoretto worshipped, painted, and was laid to rest.

Campo San Polo Diversion
Out of the campo, over the canal, and back past a winged lion and a watchful Hercules: a short diversion to Palazzo Albrizzi, the palazzo that saves its splendour for the inside.

A stroll along the Zattere
From the sun-warmed Zattere to a doge’s palazzo: the closing stretch of the Salute Walk, by way of the Gesuati, Tiepolo’s painted sky, and quiet Campo Sant’Agnese.

Veronese’s Parish: San Sebastiano to Palazzina Briati in Quiet Dorsoduro
Paolo Veronese’s parish church, an archangel with a fish, and a column from ancient Greece — a short slice of the Veronese Walk along the quiet fondamente of western Dorsoduro.

Formosa Walk: Calle del Paradiso to Campo San Lio
A slice of the Formosa Walk in Castello, from the Gothic arch of Calle del Paradiso through quiet parish lanes to Santa Maria della Fava and Campo San Lio – passing Canaletto’s front door on the way to his grave.

Goldoni Walk: Meet the Characters – Manin, the Moors, Giustina Rossi and Tommaso Rangone
Four Venetians in a few hundred metres: a patriot buried in the side of the basilica, two bronze bell-strikers on the clock tower, a woman remembered for one well-aimed mortar, and a physician who put himself on a church façade.

San Tomà and the Shoemakers: from the Vaporetto to Casa Goldoni
The San Polo Walk opens quietly: a guild hall with shoes carved over the door, a senator asleep in stone above a side entrance, and the palazzo where Goldoni was born. A short first leg from the Grand Canal to Ponte San Tomà.